author photo

Graham Sowa: I've been living in Cuba for three years now. I would like to blame my obvious hair loss seen in this updated photo on the rigors of life here and medical school, but it is probably just genetic. I've made some of the strongest friendships during my time in Cuba from other writers on this website. The strength of those friendships has almost restored my faith that the online world can lead to offline and real life change. On that same note I've adjusted to using internet one or two hours a month. In the meantime I have rediscovered things like flipping through the pages of books, writing stuff down by hand, and having to admit that I don't know something instead of rapidly looking up the answer on Google while the teacher isn't looking.

How Cuba lets us use new technology in old ways

January 21, 2013 | Print Print |

Graham Sowa

graham1

Cellphone repair person.

HAVANA TIMES — iPhones, Blackberrys, laptops and all kinds of “pads” are becoming more commonplace in Havana. This new generation of personal electronics are full of the latest apps, movies, TV shows, and news programs. This is happening with less than 5% of the population connected to the internet.

As these next-generation devices are finding a home Cuba the analogue and digital worlds are mixing in proportion not frequently seen in other countries. And it just might prove that everything you think about modern technology inevitably destroying “real” social networks is as outdated as a flickering CRT monitor.

Two weeks ago I took a direct flight from Miami to Havana. The first time I took such a flight, 2 years ago, I was one of two or three norteamericanos on the plane. Last weekend I was one of a hundred or more.

During the flight I struck up conversation with a few American students coming to Cuba. I think they had some academic mission for their two-week trip, but I imagine they will mostly be studying up on alcohol tolerance.

Besides explaining why Havana Club is a second rate rum I also answered their questions about cellular phones, internet and other digital concerns. Their technology separation anxiety was building as we descended toward the Jose Marti International Airport.

It is Cuban custom to applaud twice when the plane lands. On this flight the double dose of clapping was replaced by the American custom of taking out the cell phone and switching off the “Airplane Mode” feature. However this was not followed by hushed conversations or furious texting. No applause, no cell phones, no G4 mobile internet. We were in a cultural limbo.

As we deplaned most passengers were just looking at their paneled devices, realizing now they now had a $600 over-sized time piece in their hands. However I knew if they had a proper orientation on how we make those same devices function in Cuba maybe their despair would not have been so overwhelming.

The first time I saw smart phones in Cuba I asked myself: “Why”? There is no internet. No one can get applications or access social networking. There are no “data plans” or “hot spots”.

But it was simply a matter of time before the Cubans resolved these problems. And they did it in a way that proved that old ways of doing business, face to face, has a place in a technophile’s world.

You see, in Cuba the “App Store” is a literally a place you go, almost always someone’s home, where an enterprising group of people have found a way to download and store most Apple and Android mobile device applications. You enter the store, sit down at a computer, and start browsing the hard drive for applications you want to pass to your phone. No internet required.

graham2If for some reason your phone is “locked” or not yet “jailbroken” this “App Store” is more than equipped to do that as well. And your newly hacked phone can now receive, without use of internet, whatever applications you think you need. For a price, of course, that is much less than you would actually pay online.

Digital media is passed in a similar way.

We use memory sticks and external hard drives. The only thing stored in a “cloud” in Cuba is condensation and static electricity.

The other day I was watching a pirated movie a friend passed me, a really nice 1080p quality copy, and during the opening credits a message appeared superimposed over the move: “250 gigabytes of new movies, series, sports and news every week: you come to us 1 CUC, we come to you 2 CUC…” and then was the person’s name and phone number. That’s right, Cuba has even figured out effective use of “product placement”.

So for about 2.25 USD a person will come to your front door and let you copy 250 gigabytes of brand-spanking-new digital media. There is a discount for monthly subscribers. And before you thought it could get any better; there are no “service fees” or taxes imposed that the likes of Verison, Dish and Comcast are notorious for.

If your mobile device or computer happens to break there are repair shops for all types of electronics. Again, these are neighborhood based affairs. It is not a strange sight to see a worker at a table on the patio in front of a home on some busy street opening up a laptop that is worth more than the yearly salary of most Cuban state workers. Also, I should note that almost all of this is entrepreneurial.

The common theme of all of these activities is that the interaction to make the electronic devices function happens on a personal basis. There are handshakes and jokes exchanged. It is should not be difficult to imagine the friendships made while you wait for those 250 gigabytes to copy.

At this point I feel sort of bad about romanticizing Cuba’s slow progression toward digital connectivity. So for the sake of trying not to stoke long smoldering fires in Havana and Miami let me be clear that the vast majority of Cubans don’t have a smart phone or computer. In fact, most don’t even have a cell phone. The reasons: blockade, yes; impossibly small salary, yes. (I’m sure if that is not sufficient enough I’ll hear it in the comments).

But besides the more predictable excuses I also happen to know a number of Cubans who have the money for such things but fail to see any utility for a smart phone or pad or cell phone in their life.

graham3

Revolution is defending values you believe in at the cost of any sacrifice, altruism, solidarity and heroism.

But for those who have conceded power to the machines; we have participated in creating an interesting intersection of digital and analogue. Devices that are supposed to minimize the need to go any further than our fingertips to download an app, movie, or song are sending people all over Havana, and I’m sure in other Cuban cities as well, to make the digital work for them.

Social media and digital living are now large fields in academia and enterprise. I have read all kinds of study and conjecture about how human communications are changing, for the worse or for the better. Some of these voices, especially those critical of where digital lifestyles are taking humanity, are so caught up in how fast technology is moving that they have been unable to see the media deployed in ways not originally intended. In ways that break the mold these critics assume that technology pours humanity into. Cuba is this example of an atypical digital deployment.

I sincerely doubt that the digital (or lack thereof) status-quo in Cuba will persist many years more. People with Movistar sim cards from Chile already have internet access on their phones, even if this is a legal gray area.

I expect internet and connectivity will arrive in the form of cell phone towers before cables and Wi-Fi. (Of course I don’t know the time frame for this, a few years, less than 10? maybe?)

The “App Stores” and digital home-delivery and take-out will multiply in number while the price of internet connection remains high, but then disappear when access becomes more universal. Inevitably use of wired and wireless devices in Cuba will come to resemble the situation in the rest of the connected world.

Until then, the rest of the world needs to take notes while these analogue anomalies exist in Cuba’s emerging digital world. Perhaps in the not so distant future humans will get tired of looking at a screen all day and decide they still want their devices, but in a way that allows us to experience humanity without a bunch of 1s and 0s as intermediaries. We will wish we would have paid more attention to how the Cubans managed during the belated arrival of their digital revolution.

I must admit that I look forward to the day that I arrive in Cuba and turn on my Android phone and get a solid internet connection before leaving the plane. But I hope I don’t do that before applauding a good landing by the pilot.

As I exited the airplane two weeks ago when I arrived to Cuba I told the Cuban-American stewardess that she should teach us norteamericanos to applaud when the plane lands. She told me, without missing a beat: “Don’t worry; everyone applauds when we land in Miami.” This was more political commentary on her part than reality. When we arrive to Miami we just start looking at screens.


What's your opinion?

  • Griffin

    Graham,

    Did it ever occur to you that these marvellous innovations Cubans have come up with to access the digital age: the App stores, the delivered to the door software copying, and the imported Sim cards are illegal?

    And you forget to mention the main reason Cuba lags behind the rest of the world in modern communications technologies: the regime doesn’t want Cubans to freely communicate with each other too easily, or with the outside world at all.

    • grahamsowa

      hey moses and griffin, yeah i know that it is “illegal” or whatever according to the laws established by the politicians who are lobbied (read: paid) by the companies that make this tech. i thought y’all were fans of competition? don’t you think that entails consumer rights to alter technology that they buy with their money and then becomes their property. moses, you talk about Apple like their proprietary hardware (AND software) are some type of bell of freedom. really they are just digital versions of something resembling the cuban government. shut off, inside and out. check out how Steve Jobs once sued some teenage bloggers for talking about his products before they were launched. not exactly your free thinking liberal intellectual capitalist.

    • Victor Lar

      As long as there is the embargo the US laws
      are not applicable in Cuba. So for now it is all legal. Once the United
      States lifts the Cuban trade embargo and supports Cuba joining WTO, then the copyright can be enforced.

      • Brrr

        Even then, not so much. US laws don’t apply in Canada for instance.

  • Moses Patterson

    Graham, when you bash the US and our capitalist system, do you forget that it is that very system that foments the lion’s share of the technology that your socialist heroes are stealing? By the way, my objection is only slightly piqued by the copyright violations and the software piracy. What really torques me is that you, like so many naive and not so naive progressives fail to acknowledege that it is the very nature of capitalism, that is to say competition, that begets this technology. Cooperative socialism or its bastardized constructs does not an Apple or Microsoft make. If we relied on Marxist-Lenin powered technology we would not be where we are now.

  • Brrr

    I was tempted to stop reading when I saw this blasphemy: “Havana Club is a second rate rum”. Nothing we can buy in North America even comes close to the smoothness and flavour of 7yr HC. It can make a rum drinker out of people who hate rum.

    You also have a misconception regarding cellular data in Cuba. I use my Canadian iPhone in Cuba all the time. The roaming rates leave much to be desired, but all data functions work just fine. Cubacel also sells SIM local cards that also access that same data network, just with much better rates.

    Other than that, a very nice piece, it’s always cool to read about how incredibly resourceful Cuban people are. That’s why the embargo has not worked after all these decades: no matter the problem, for Cubans, there is always a resolver.

    • Moses Patterson

      Does your iPhone access the internet in Cuba? Can you receive sports scores or weather updates and use the GPS function? How’s your voice quality? I assume you have a calling plan from a Canadan company. Graham is an American and our telephone companies do not have roaming plans that function from Cuba. By the way, Havana Club is a good rum but there are at least of handful of rums that I can purchase in the US that consistently beat HC in blind tasting competitions. Obviously, your personal preference is different, but professional tasters would disagree. Besides, HC is not even the best rum in Cuba, let alone outside the island.

      • Brrr

        All functions related to data and GPS work without issue. Yes, it’s a Canadian provider, but it’s using the Cubacel network. The article implied that Cuba doesn’t have wireless internet, that’s not the same thing as American companies blocking their users.

        I’d be interested to know what these better Cuban rums are. The only other Cuban rums I’ve tried were Mulatta and Santiago, both were not very good.

        • Moses Patterson

          The functions you enjoy on your phone are not available to Cubacel customers. BTW, you are the first person who I have heard that had GPS in Cuba.

          • ac

            GPS is a satellite triangulation system and the satellites cover Cuba the same as the rest of the world. You don’t even need a phone to receive GPS coordinates and locate yourself in a map, the phone has a GPS receiver and makes the process easier for you. And it works without connection as long as you download a offline version of the map.

        • Griffin

          Just for the record, because people drinking the rum ought to know some history:

          Havana Club rum is produced from the distillery expropriated without compensation by the Cuban government, from the legitimate Cuban owners. José Arechabala established the distillery in 1878.

          Santiago-de-Cuba rum is produced from the distillery expropriated without compensation by the Cuban government, from the legitimate owners, the Bacardi family who established the distillery in 1862. The Bacardis had supported Castro & the revolution, sending thousands of dollars to the rebels in the Sierra Maestra mountains north of Santiago. Castro stole their property anyway.

          I’ve tried both those rums, and they are both good, but they leave a nasty taste in my mouth.

          • ac

            While you are at it, at least notice that the US government rejected the compensation offered by Cuba to he nationalized assets from US citizens, Nationals of other countries received their compensation (most if not anything is already payed) and are not bit**ing over it.

    • grahamsowa

      compared to a bunch of other cuban rums Havana Club is second rate. try Santero 7 year and then we’ll talk. or Cubay.

      • Brrr

        I’ve tried all of those and more. Even the $150-200 CUC per bottle varieties. I’ve got bottles of Santero 7 and 11 yr in my liquor cabinet. They’re OK, but do not even come close to comparing to Havana Club 7 yr for smoothness, and flavour.

  • JOSEPH

    CAN ANY ONE SUGGEST AND TONER AND CARTRIDGE DEALERS IN CUBA ?

    • http://www.havanatimes.org/ Circles Robinson

      Check out the website. http://www.revolico.com they are not dealers but people who sell items such as these.